Friday, July 12, 2019

Home and Late with the Finale!

Washington, DC, Friday, July 12, 2019--We arrived home late Tuesday night and have had a hectic few days arranging our lives to meet daily needs and chores.  Yikes, coming home after being away a good bit is a bear.

However, we can look back on a superb visit to California and Oregon.  To complete the play-list, we thoroughly enjoyed the spoofy, campy, Alice in Wonderland as produced by the Festival.  It's a light, hilarious and very well done take-off on Lewis Carroll's book, with bits and pieces of today thrown into the plot of Alice becoming a queen. 

Dinner, too, at Amuse was superb.  John had almost the same meal as previous years, a double-appetizer of veal sweetbreads, while Ben enjoyed his halibut.  The wines started wtih a Cowhorn Spiral 36, a Côte du Rhône style white from the Applegate Valley, followed by a 2015 Lemelson Vineyard Willamette Valley pinot noir followed by 2017 Stoller  Dundee Hills pinot noir, all from Oregon.

Coming home was easy.  Alaska Airlines was impressive in its service from Santa Rosa to Santa Ana (John Wayne Airport, without the swagger) but somewhere in Santa Ana they misplaced a bag that did not accompany us to Detroit.   Instead it went into a baggage compartment heading off to Minneapolis-St. Paul.  Fortunately nothing was needed from it and it showed up at 8 AM the following morning.  The Delta flights from Santa Ana to Detroit, a huge airport with its own aerial tramway system, and then on to Washington National were comfortable--not like the Level stuff we put up with coming home from Europe--and on time.

We're not planning major trips for the rest of the year, but expect to make reports from the New Jersey Shore in mid-August, and Connecticut, Massachusetts and Rhode Island about our annual trip there to see family and friends.

Night time at the Festival.

Sunday, July 7, 2019

Shows and Feasts

Ashland, Oregon, Sunday, July 7, 2019—A busy few days for us, with two plays each day and a lovely dinner and good wines each night.  Just as an aside, the weather has been perfect.  Unlike the 100F degree days we have met for the past few years, the weather has been clear, bright, breezy and cool for this part of the world.  Day to day highs have been in the 80s (high 20sC) and cool enough for quilts at night, dropping to about 50F (10C).  

Thursday, July 4—After the parade, we had a matinee of Paula Vogel’s Indecent.  It is about a Yiddish play, God of Vengeance, written by a Polish Jew, Solomon Asch in 1906.  Vogel discovered a manuscript by chance at a university library where she was teaching and researched its production history.  It is story about a “religious” Jewish man who runs a brothel on the first floor of his house and lives with his wife and daughter on the second floor.  His daughter Manke falls in love with Esther, one of the downstair prostitutes.  The play was successfully produced in many European cities without incident until it reached New York in 1920.  There, it was shut down and the cast and producers were arrested on obscenity charges.  The censorious voices included Jews (one being the rabbi of the large Reform Temple Emanuel).  Ben attended the  post-production discussion with Rebecca S’Manga Frank who played Manke.  He found out that the cast here is entirely Jewish and that Frank is “Bluish”—a Black Jew.  


For dinner,  our hosts Ed and Geegee chose Liquid Assets, a new restaurant.  They bought the wines at the bottle shop at the entrance to the restaurant and then brought them to our table—an Oregon cabernet franc, a merlot and a cabernet sauvignon, all of which had both good bouquets and good bodies  and went with our choices for meals.  We preferred the cabernet franc.  We started the meal with olives, truffled popcorn, then moving on for John a bowl of poutine followed by a spinach salad.  Ben began with roasted brussels sprouts with bacon and a veggie burger, which was extremely good, and lived up to its beefy cousin.

Thursday night’s play was a fine version of the comedy As You Like It.  The first act was confusing and difficult but was redeemed by the second act which ends with:  “All the world’s a stage….”

Friday July 5—Part of the visits that we always enjoy is a chance to meet with cast members over coffee or lunch.   This time, Rosalind from As You Like It  joined us at the Larks Restaurant.  Jessica Ko who is now her third season here was witty, charming and full of insight into playing various roles in the shows.  The actors generally have roles in two plays each year, often performing one in the morning and another play in the evening.  She is a graduate of Brown’s MA Theater Program, established by well known playwright Paula Vogel and the director of Providence’s Trinity Theater.  Ben had a  a cream soup and salad, while John had a huge chopped roasted lamb wrap.

Friday afternoon we saw a different type of Shakespeare, La Commedia of Errors, in both English and Spanish and set in the present time of separating, detaining and deporting by ICE particularly Latin Americans.  In the show the issue is deporting from the US one of each of two sets of twins who by accident were separated at birth and raised on either side of the US-Mexico border, of course unaware of their siblings, per the original Comedy of Errors.  The play was performed in a rehearsal space, and we learned that, as community outreach, it is often performed in schools in southern Oregon.  Given the current border issues including Dreamers, it’s a timely piece particularly for he West Coast with its significant Mexican-latino population.  

On Friday night we hosted dinner at Peerless Hotel, one of our favorite places, eating under the apple tree on the lawn, with excellent St. Innocent Freedom Hill Willamette pinot noir and Irvine Roberts Rogue Valley chardonnay.  John started with Korean style mushroom steamed buns followed by curried vegetables with skewered shrimp, and while Ben enjoyed a chilled fruit and vegetable soup and an ahi poke bowl.

That night we thoroughly enjoyed a more traditional program of All’s Well That Ends Well which was terrifically funny but nuanced.  The women win in he battle of the sexes although the men are not truly defeated.

Saturday, July 6—After our regular breakfast, Ben headed off to have coffee with two of the witches from MacBeth, in the form of an interview:  Miriam Laube interviewing Erica Sullivan.  John felt in need of some free time, and then ventured into the local pub, Sam’s, for a meat pie.  They do not serve Lancashire style pork pies but their beef variety was OK, though it had  gravy rather than jelly inside the crust.

In the afternoon we were part of the white audience for the dark comedy Between Two Knees about the lives of an indian family whose members had survived the 1890 Wounded Knee massacre and the 1973 Wounded Knee occupation.   This is a hilariously funny tragi-comedy written and acted by a “Native American” comedy troupe about the horrors faced by the native Americans of the Plains and how they have interacted or been forced to interact with white so-called civilization that saw them as savages. The white people in the audience are, of course, “others’ and told so in the hilarious first lines which more or less advise you to flee if this makes you uncomfortable.

We had dinner at another new restaurant, the Cucina Biazzi, hosted by David and Andy.  It's an alfresco traditional Italian restaurant where we enjoyed a starter antipasto, then pasta where John looked to the sage and marscapone ravioli and Ben to creamy risotto with artichokes.  Following, we both had gambaretto.

The evening play was MacBeth, in all its beheading glory and blood. It was powerful, clearly showing that the lust to obtain and keep power leads to complete and utter tragedy.

This morning our group arose early to watch the US women’s soccer team beat the Dutch team in Paris.  Tonight it’s Alice in WonderlandI, after dinner at Amuse.



Thursday, July 4, 2019

Ah, Parades and Hairspray

Ashland, Oregon, July4, 2019--We arrived yesterday to join our happy group, after a good drive up through the California Central Valley, stopping at our Bear Diner in Redding for lunch.  

On arrival in Oregon, hugs, bisous, etc. and then dinner in the hotel at the Alchemy Restaurant.  Lovely meal with an excellent Oregon pinot rosé to start and continuing with a lovely Oregon Rogue Valley pinot noir.  

The play was a hoot.  Hairspray is such a camp production and the OSF certainly camped it up.  They also stressed, as John is sure John Waters, the originator of the production in Baltimore, wanted it to be, that it is a story about equality, racial, sexual, and in this production even for the disabled--several characters were visibly disabled and performed marvelously.  We laughed, we applauded, we danced in our seats, lots of fun with a good message.

We arose this morning for breakfast and then off to the parade.  Ashland's 4th of July parade is quite impressive starting with the Air Force fly-by and then proceeding through all of the groups, organizations, business and political forces that make the town a good place to live.  Here's a compilation of photos.



Wednesday, July 3, 2019

A Full Day of Wining!

Wednesday, July3, 2019, Healdsburg, California--A full day yesterday of wine tasting at Local, a tasting room for many wineries in Geyserville about 10 miles north of here.  Dixon, JR, David and the two of us drove up there to this old-fashioned country town where the gentrifiers appear not to be too active.
  
Wineries

Patrick, the host, led us through about forty different wines from 15 or so wineries.   We put together a varied case which will be shipped later this month once we get home.  We ended up enjoying the company of a local winery owner and his daughter.  She had been involved with Cow Girl Creamery which had a store on F Street in Washington many years ago.  We had met the Cow Girls at Marian Burros' home for a tasting of their cheeses.  We are looking forward to Dick Handel's sagrantino wine--it grows in Umbria and on five acres in California.  Those are its only homes!

Lunch at Diavolo's next door to the tasting room began with a Spanish rosé cava that a local winery imports, lovely pink fizz, then on to varied meals as pizza with cheeses for JR and pork belly for David,  duck paté and aspargus salad for Dixon, shrimp soup and beet salad for Ben and tripe alla fiorentno for John.  Sitting under the arbor with washing lines hanging around and we could have been in Sicily.

Much political talk, and opinions on 4 July tomorrow in DC.  

We decided on a light dinner, so we picked up lox, brown bread, herring, greens and tomatoes for a really lovely evening on the veranda.   We began with a rosata from Acorn Winery, run by friends Beth and Bill just south of here, then to a Davis pinot noir  then Davis Rhône mix and finally to a port from a Napa winery.  

Today we are off to Oregon,  JR and Dixon return to SF.  

Tuesday, July 2, 2019

Wine and Steaks

Tuesday, July 2, 2019, Healdsburg, California--A busy full day yesterday, but not much photography, however David provided the table!   Around lunch time our friends Dixon and JR arrived from San Francisco to spend two days.   They are avid "winies" and know the scenery and the vines in the county very well. 

After lunch of tomato and onion paninis, and much conversation and talk of their wedding--we came out to Calfornia for that at the end of February--we headed into Healdsburg for some wine pickup and some tasting.   At Sapphire Hill, across the street from Davis, we tasted a wide variety of specialized vintages, some from old vine zinfandels to a modern dessert wine that tastes almost like cocoa, called Samocha.  This is quite unique and we look forward to enjoying the wine when we get back to Washington.
In readiness

Host David picked up some fabulous--and they were fabulous--almost two-inch thick, New York strip steaks and we roasted fresh tomatoes and onions to go with them.   We started with a fine brie and crackers and some Davis Rhône style white, and then moved on to a huge salad and completed the meal with a magnum of Grand Cheval, a blend of syrah and pinot noir from Oregon which was a wedding present given to Dixon and JR.  Dessert was a tall-plated galette of fresh fruit in pastry.

Today we are heading off to Geyserville about an hour north of Healdsburg for some local wine tasting at a cooperative tasting room and lunch outdoors in the mountains.  

Sunday, June 30, 2019

Sonoma, Healdsburg and the Countryside

Healdsburg, California, Sunday, June 30, 2019--We took off from Washington National Airport early yesterday morning for our annual visit to Northern California's Sonoma County and the Oregon Shakespeare Festival in Ashland.   It's an 11-day trip this year with eight plays in Ashland, as varied as "Hairspray" and "Macbeth." 

The trip out on Alaska Airlines from National to Los Angeles was painless, arriving about 50 minutes early.  Lunch at an Italian airport restaurant, Fabio Vivandi's Osteria, was a good meal--a bleu cheese pancetta hamburger for John and a chicken panini for Ben.  At the next-door Peet's coffee, the barista experimented and produced a volcano of cappuccino.  The flight from LAX for Santa Rosa in Sonoma County left early and arrived about half an hour before schedule at the country airport.
Flowering before death
 A new garage

A quick ride by car and here we are in friend David's construction site.  He's having a new garage built and is turning a wild next-door lot into a garden.  We enjoyed a fine dinner of chicken last night with corn on the cob and a caprese tomato salad.  Since David was one our traveling companions during our recent French canal trip, we delved into his cellar for an Acorn Winery Sonoma County Rosato and another local Davis Winery 2017 Chardonnay.  An excellent meal to finish off a fine day.


Up early this morning  to look around the construction and the agave plant which is in full flower, then a good fruit and granola breakfast, good conversation and fine coffee.   We headed out to a barbecue at a local winery-farm in Alexander Valley where David's St Paul's Church Vestry friends were throwing their annual picnic.  The food was fine at a lovely country farm with its own vineyards and a water slide and pond.  Very good talk of politics and lots of discussion about national politics with people who have lived and worked all over the world.

On the way home we bought the bits and pieces necessary for tonight's meal of fresh yellow tomato soup with lemon and lime scents and tomatillos.   The main course will be varied pastas with salami and chicken sauced with chopped spices.  The wine is 2016 Davis Russian River Valley Soul Patch pinot noir.  Tomorrow will be serious wine discussion and tasting when Dixon and JR drive up for two days from San Francisco.

Friday, May 31, 2019

Barcelona

Flauta
May 30, 2019, Barcelona--We packed up and left Berlin yesterday for a great evening in Barcelona, at our favorite hotel, the Axel, and dinner at our favorite restaurant, Flauta--a superb tapas place where we had lots of seafood, including excellent sardines, and cod fritters with a romesco sauce and a bottle of Montsant that was superb.  Finished off with a nightcap of the free house shots (awful sweet stuff) on the roof of the hotel at the Skybar.  Now we head off to lunch with John's friend Tony and his wife Christine who retired to Spain from England a few years ago and then home to the States. 

We learned however yesterday the travails of travel.  We rode a hugely crowded bus to Tegal Airport, which is worse that National Airport was in the days before the new terminal.  We asked for assistance, which took more than an hour.  When it came we were raced through the lines and made the gate less than 10 minutes before loading--only to find out that the plane was delayed by a few minutes.  Got on board and found we had at least 20 minutes on the ground because of overcrowded skies.   Arrived in Barcelona and then had to wait more than 30 minutes for the bags.  Got the bus to downtown and it developed a diesel leak.  Changed buses at the side of a motorway!  Short walk to the hotel and had a great dinner as noted.  All in a days work of travel--glad it all happened at once and we weren't pressed.  Oh, well.   

And so ends this part of jmcbaddatlarge.blogspot.com.  More to come in a few weeks.

Thursday, May 30, 2019

Bauhaus and Debussy

Thursday, May 30, 2019, Berlin--As we pack to leave Berlin we can look back on many fascinating activities and programs.  Art, boats, meals, architecture, walks and museums.  Yesterday we added to the list--opera.  

Staatsoper






We had tickets at the Staatsoper for Debussy's Pelléas and Mélisande.  This opera, which a friend describes as "whatever happens?", was a production originally staged in 1991, in a modernist, blocky set with costumes that belonged more to the Pet Shop Boys than the opera.  Grotesque hats and wigs, huge shouldered coats and a Modigliani inspired set.  It's a long opera, over three hours, and while the music is lovely--after all Debussy was a master French impressionist--the dramatic flow is slow.  Ben found the production mesmerizing.  The singing was superb, though the orchestra, at times, tended to overpower the voices for us in our orchestra seats.  


HKW



We started the day with a trip to the Haus die Kulteren der Welt where we had earlier seen a huge poster for a Bauhaus Imaginista show.  https://www.hkw.de/en/  This show, in four parts describes the interaction and spread of Bauhaus thought during the 20th century over the world from its beginnings in Germany to India, Africa, Japan and other countries, with a collection of letters, products, visuals and a fine group of movies.  We enjoyed it very much, though the letters and small pieces are hard to read and are in mostly foreign languages.  



Before the opera we had dinner a local Vietnamese restaurant on Unter den Linden near the Staatsopera.  Very nice pho for Ben and a rice and grilled pork bowl for John.  We started with a salad and spring rolls of shrimp and pork.  The restaurant is called not surprisingly called the Vietnam Restaurant.  

We also visited the memorial to the book burnings of 1933 before in the platz between the Opera House and the Law Faculty of Humboldt University, the empty library below ground is quite impressive, though as a French student nearby remarked, "très petite."



 




Wednesday, May 29, 2019

Potsdam's Imperial Grandeur and Berlin delights at Panama Restaurant


The alley way
Wednesday, May 29, 2019, Berlin--Last evening's dinner at Panama https://oh-panama.com/en/welcome/#menu captivated the synthesis, creativity and dynamism of this city.  Panama is located in an upscale neighborhood Lützoplatz with high-end retailers.  The restaurant is reached by walking down a landscaped alley off the main street.  

We were ushered upstairs to a large white room decorated with tropical 
Panama
flourishes.  Our highly competent and friendly waitress, a young woman with a nose-ring, explained that everything on the menu (except for the three course prix-fixe dinner) was meant for sharing.  We chose to go à la carte.  First, with her help, we chose a mid-priced bottle of German riesling  wine, a 2017 Clemens Busch v.b.S. which was delivered and poured for us by the male sommelier, a former San Franciscan who has fallen in love with Berlin.  The wine was fresh, balanced and great with the dishes we chose.  We ordered Panama empanadas with sesame dipping sauce, batavia salad with caviar and pomegranate, ceviche of salmon trout followed by pork cheeks with grilled pineapple and white asparagus with wild garlic, seaweed and thai basil.  The crowd was young and middle aged of all stripes, well dressed and friendly.  We briefly spoke to people on both sides of our table.
Earlier in the day we had taken the recommendation of friends and ventured on the S-bahn to Potsdam, the center of the Soviet occupation of East Germany, the Imperial summer palace in the days of the Hohenzollerns and the site of the Potsdam agreements near the end of WW2 between Stalin, Churchill and Truman.  

The tour guide insisted 
Five of rhe seven languages offered on the bus
Potsdam really was a no-place village until the Hohenzollerns took ownership in the 17th century.  Then it grew over the centuries into an imperial wonderland of palaces, mansions and military barracks--Prussia, the big north German state--was quite militaristic to say the least.  What is really fascinating as we learned on multi-language tour on a double-decker bus is that all of it is like frosting on the German cake as imagined by the rulers.   A grand palace to celebrate victory--the Neue Palace, a summer home, Sanssouci,  where Frederick the Great entertained and partied with his greyhounds and Voltaire, and buildings for immigrants like the French Huguenots and Dutch architects brought in to complete the town for the kings.
The Potsdam triumphal arch
Nevertheless the overall effect comes somewhere between real magnificence and the contrived parvenu views of Kaiser Wilhelm II and Frederick Wilhelm of Prussia.  We had a beautiful day to enjoy the vistas and the palaces.
Homes built for Dutch architects
who never came

Phony dachas for Russians
Looks like a mosque--i
t hides a pumping station
French protestant church

The horrors of occupation--
East German on the left,
West Berlin on the right

Celciliahof,The palace of the
crown prince
completed in 1916,

The red star of Stalin installed in infurtate
Churchill at the Potsdam
Conference in 1945


Roman gods celebrating inebriation at
Sanssouci, the summer palace of
Frederick the Great

FG the Great's grave. 
He brought potatoes to Prussia


Servants quarters at Neue Palace

Kaiser Wilhelm II mobilized for
World War I from her

George Baselitz 
In the entrance hall, no others exist
After returning from Potsdam and before leaving for dinner, the hotel offered us a guided tour of the art in the hotel.  Most of it has been given on a long-term agreement by the Neo-Expressionist German artist Georg Baselitz who is still living in Berlin in his eighties.  He and some of his East German contemporaries were degraded by Soviet political constraints and moved to West Berlin in the mid-50's.  Most of the works, including two in our room, are etchings and many of them are upside down landscapes or figures--which accounts for the name of the bar in the hotel.


Tuesday, May 28, 2019

Museums and a tram ride.

May 27, 2019, Berlin--We  returned to the hotel and John thought about pig knuckles and cabbage for dinner.  Ben was once again in an asparagus mood.  We  picked out a German restaurant that filled us, the Zur Hippe Gasthaus (translated literally "to the hip guesthouse").  The restaurant, located in the eastern sector, will be closing permanently after 33 years in operation.  It opened before unification.  It provided us with a good menu of asparagus dishes, soup and with boiled potatoes for Ben.  John got his pig knuckle, which was huge and very easy to eat once the layer of skin and fat was removed.   

The restaurant filled us up, like breakfast at this arty hotel (the Art'otel).  Everything from smoked fish to eggs to yoghurt to croissants eaten in a dining room surrounded by modern art.

Yesterday we headed off to the Museums!  We visited the Neue and the Pergammon Museums. From ancient Sumeria and Egypt to ancient Germany with the palace gate in Babylon, the mummies and temples of Egypt, the ancient walls of a home in Aleppo from the14th century, castle walls in Muslim culture and beautiful ceilings.  Quite a cultural feast.

Then we took off for coffee and a beer in a local park and a tram ride to see East Berlin's architecture from Communist days.   Not great.  The DDR looks like it was so dull, full of wide boulevards and huge nondescript buildings.  Today the ground floors bustle with activity.

 Here's an array of pictures.


Nefertiti poster, no camera in her room
Egyptian temple ceiling
Pre-historic Germanic era gold calendar hat

Muslim caliphate castle walls
Mummy cases

Gate of Ishtar

Temple painting
Muslim era Aleppo house


Never pass up a tram ride
Communist Architecture