He took the Busway downtown (since over 65s travel for free in Pennsylvania and who wants to hassle with parking!). The Busway was under construction when he arrived in 1980. At Penn Station, he got off to start a walking tour of downtown. Penn Station was derelict in 1980, now it's an upscale condo. The new bus station across the street takes the place of a dank smelly old Greyhound terminal on the same spot, torn down about 20 years ago. He crossed Grant Street, shadowed now by the UPMC Building, formerly the US Steel Building, and down Liberty Avenue, scene of many a gay evening 30 years ago. Liberty Avenue now houses lofts and theaters, parks and restaurants, and the August Wilson Center, named after the playwright who grew up in the Hill District.
Liberty Avenue still has a bit of a raw edge at some parts, but it is changing dramatically, and after a turn toward the Allegheny through streets lined with buildings that were crumbling 30 years ago and are now totally restored and grander than when they were built, he arrived at the 9th Street Bridge. Now it's the Andy Warhol Bridge and leads to the Warhol Museum on the North Side. The 6th and7th Street Bridges are also renamed--Roberto Clemente Bridge and Rachel Carson Bridge. What's special at the moment is the Warhol Bridge, nicknamed for three weeks the "Knit Bridge." The bridge towers are covered with fabric and the pedestrian walkways are lined with knitted panels, all individually done, in a variety of colors, patterns and designs. It's a three week show sponsored by the Warhol Musuem, and surely enlivens downtown's street scape.
After walking over the Allegheny and back, he ventured into Market Square, near the Point, he passed some kids, and some child-like adults, playing in the water fountains in front of the PPG Building, the crystal like edifice that houses one of Pittsburgh's oldest companies. A quick T trip under the river to test the new tunnel out to PNC Stadium and Heinz Field, and then over to the South Side to take the incline up to Mount Washington to see the view and then lunch at the Micro Diner on Shiloh Street. The view from Mount Washington is incredible and gives Pittsburghers and tourists that "wow" sensation of overlooking the Point, the three rivers, Allegheny, Monongahela and Ohio, and the distant countryside ribbed with hills.
We had gone to Pittsburgh, of course, to see family and friends and had two lovely evenings at home in Edgewood with friends, and then a night out at Legume, on North Craig Street, a lovely restaurant that had moved several years ago from its start-up site in Regent Square, where we had eaten. It has changed, but clearly for the better. It's in the space where we used to hold Ben's mother's and dad's birthday and anniversary parties, but it sure doesn't look like the old Moré's anymore.
The other reason to visit was to go to a distant cousin's wedding. Held at the Arts and Crafts Center in Mellon Park, about a mile from where we used to live in Squirrel Hill, the ceremony was lovely. It was preceded by a rehearsal dinner the night before at Soba Lounge in Shadyside, one of Pittsburgh's superb restaurants, an Asian fusion place with a very good bar, and then followed by the reception at J Verno's studio on the South Side---a venue for celebrations. Since the groom works for the Big Burrito Group, owner of Soba Lounge and Eleven, the food was exquisite and seemingly never ending--from shrimp to veggies to cheeses to meats to fish to nibbles to champagne, and then dancing. It was superb. We wish Samantha and Josh a life as wonderful as their wedding.
Here are some pictures of the walking tour John took...on a beautiful day.
