Killorglin, the Reeks, the Ring and the Rain

Killorglin is just west, by about ten miles, from Killarney, the main Kerry tourist resort, so it is a good bit quieter.  Nestled near mountains and about an hour from the actual ocean, we figured it was a central spot.   The hotel, the Balconi, is an old building but the insides are sleek and modern, with excellent accomodation, though the wifi system does not operate in the rooms.   

The food, which we had on Wednesday night, is excellent.  Ben enjoyed a seafood chowder, full of local seafood in a creamy soup, as a starter, which John went for a good vegetable soup.  He continued with a lamb stew, which was served with boiled Irish potatoes.   Ben had a pièce de résistance with his main:   a nut non-meat loaf surrounded with a red pepper purée.  No dessert.  

Yesterday it started to rain, at times very hard, and at times nothing at all, which we have learned is quite Irish.   It pours, stops, pours, drizzles, stops, sun comes out, goes back in, clouds turn dark, then light, then drizzle, then pours, then ...  etc.   Let's face it you are damp a good bit.

Yesterday morning, we drove over the mountains south Killorglin to the south side of the Ring of Kerry first.  It's a harrowing drive in some respects, since many of the roads are literally one lane wide, with openings allowing you to pull in when you meet another car coming the other way.  The fact that there are few cars coming at you at this time (non tourist season) doesn't make meeting a truck any less worrisome.  Sometimes you have to back up to the next opening to allow the truck by.  

But the mountains are lovely, and when the sun comes out (infrequently) they provide beauitful vistas.  We actually saw two rainbows (Finian's?) one of which was full.  But no pot of gold.  Often, though, the vistas include ruined farm houses, many approaching two hundred years old, or more, where people left to go abroad in troubled times.   They are still leaving, with many of the natives, and the immigrants too, muttering and expounding on the economic situation. 

The most impressive vistas are along the coast.  We followed one little road, a lane, from the main highway to the very end.   At that point we could see the waves crashing on the cliffs and rocks below and small islands in the distance.  We stopped to talk to one of the people going into a house overlooking the view of Scarff and other smaller islands:  The owner, he claimed it was the best in Ireland, warm (there are palmettos around here) and a beautiful place to summer.  He lives in Galway, up the coast a ways, coming south to his country house.  

The views of the Skelly Islands further south are equally impressive.  Regrettably the puffin birds near Portmagee flying from their nests on the sides of the cliffs moved too quickly to photograph, but they zoom around in the air, almost playfully.

We passed through many towns, and of course Ben found (really John found) a coffee shop where Ben trained the owner, Helen, in how to make his XX dry cappuccino.  

Economically, Ireland looks OK on the surface, with Audis and other upscale cars in evidence, motorways beautiful,  but the locals often report "Ireland has no future" and even the radio programs say it will be years before the country is truly back on its feet.  And the prices:  restaurant meals are quoted in prices where the numbers are the same, but they are in euros--that's 30 percent more in cost than in US dollars.  And gasoline:  John figures that at €1.60 euros to the liter that makes it about $8 per gallon!

Last night we decided to explore the eating scene here in the village.  Not a large number of restaurants but we found a rather sweet Chinese place, apparently owned by Fujian people.  The waitress and chef, she said, were both from Fujian (southeastern coast of China, north of Hong Kong, south of Shanghai, across the straits from Taiwan).  The food was different from most Chinese food we have had, sweeter, but enjoyable.  Served in iron bowls poured on to very hot skillets to keep it warm.   Lamb with ginger and garlic, chicken in spices, though not as hot of kungpao, and served mostly with sliced vegetables.   The Dream Chinese Restaurant.  

Today the weather looks better.   Perhaps the Gap of Dunloe.